Revisiting the Superclásico: a story of death, violence, colour and family

A personal essay reflecting on attending the Superclásico between Boca Juniors and River Plate, exploring how the fixture has evolved from a violent spectacle to a more family-friendly experience since 2013.

The author attended a Boca v River Superclásico in Buenos Aires during the week she turned 60, revisiting a lifetime of experiences at Argentina's biggest derby. Since 2013, Argentine football matches have been played without visiting fans, fundamentally changing the character of the fixture. The absence of away supporters has made matches more family-friendly and increased ticket availability for club members, though it has also reduced the visual spectacle that once made the Superclásico famous globally.

The author recalls her own history with the fixture, including a 1994 visit to the terraces with La Doce leader José Barritta that ended in tragedy when two River Plate fans were shot dead after the game. That experience shifted her perspective from wide-eyed fascination to serious concern about football-related violence. The essay traces the darker history of the Superclásico, including the 1968 Puerta 12 incident in which 71 fans, mostly Boca supporters, were crushed when an exit gate failed to open fully. Despite this violent past, the fixture has also seen moments of unity, with fans from both clubs chanting together against police in the years following the tragedy.